Pack your virtual bags because it’s time to embark on another journey through the world of travel. When we spilled the spicy tea on Thailand a few weeks back we’d said that we were thinking about doing more of these from time to time. Well, the response was overwhelming and there was a request for the next one to be about Laos. So, this week we’re setting our sights on none other than the ‘Land of a Million Elephants’ - Laos.
If you think Laos is just like Cambodia or Vietnam – think again! Indeed, Laos is kinda like that quirky cousin you never knew you had till you met them at the family reunion. This hidden gem likes to fly under the radar, but don’t let its modesty fool you. Beneath its humble exterior lies a hidden treasure trove. Unspoiled landscapes, cascading waterfalls, ancient relics, and meandering rivers are only the beginning of what there is to discover.
Tucked away in the heart of Southeast Asia, Laos might not be the first destination that comes to mind when planning a holiday, but we definitely think it’s high time to give this landlocked wonderland the recognition it deserves. With its rich culture, breathtaking landscapes, and some of the friendliest people you’ll ever meet, Laos is the ultimate “don’t judge a book by its cover” destination.
From its diverse ethnic groups and ancient temples to its delicious cuisine and natural wonders, Laos has plenty to offer for both history buffs and adventure travelers. No trip to Laos is ordinary and we think you’ll agree as we uncover just a few of its secrets. So, join us as we embark on a journey through a country that, despite having one of the fastest-growing economies in the world, remains one of the poorest countries in Asia.
In a nutshell: With a population of just over 7 million people, the official name of the country is The Lao People’s Democratic Republic.
Located along the banks of the Mekong River, Vientiane, at nearly 1 million people, is both the capital and the largest city in the country. Its name means “city of sandalwood” and it’s perhaps one of the most relaxed capital cities in the world.
The flag of Laos consists of three horizontal bands – red, blue, and red – with a large white disk in the center. The red bands represent the blood shed for liberation; the blue band represents the Mekong River and prosperity; the white disk symbolizes the full moon against the Mekong River but also represents the country’s bright future.
Laos - the ‘Land of a Million Elephants’: About the size of the state of Kansas in the United States, Laos is a place where time seems to run, happily, a little slower than everywhere else. Its name comes from the original name of the Kingdom of Lan Xang, Lan = million and Xang = elephants. The Lan Xang Kingdom existed for more than 350 years, from 1353 to 1707, and was considered one of the largest kingdoms in Southeast Asia. The elephant, sacred to the Lao people, symbolizes strength and abundance. In the Tham Xang Cave, near the town of Vang Vieng, you can even see a stalactite that resembles an elephant. Sadly, due to wars, deforestation, and human cultivation, today there are only about 2,500 wild and captive elephants remaining in the country.
Ocean = Zero, Islands = 1,000’s: Although Laos is completely landlocked, in the south of the country, on the Cambodian border, lies one of its most incredible natural attractions, ‘Si Phan Don’, more commonly known as the “4,000 islands”. A laid back, sleepy, charming little gem of a place it, as the name suggests, consists of thousands of tiny, mostly uninhabited islands scattered in the vast Mekong Delta, with the majestic Khone Phapheng falls stretching for nearly 10 kilometers (6 miles) along the river. Most definitely worth the overnight bus trip from Vientiane to Don Det, the main traveler hangout in the area. A hammock, a beer, and a sunset. What else do you need?
Lao People’s Democratic Republic: Laos is one of the world’s 5 remaining openly ‘communist’ countries (alongside North Korea, China, Vietnam, and Cuba). A French colony until 1953, the country got caught up in the Vietnam War. In 1975, the communist government overthrew the monarchy, heralding years of isolation, and have been ruling ever since. After the fall of the Soviet Union, Laos began opening up to the outside world. In 1994 the “Friendship bridge” over the Mekong linking Laos and Thailand was opened, in 1997 Laos became a member of ASEAN, the Association of Southeast Asian Nations, and in 2013 became a member of the World Trade Organization (WTO). In 2016 Barak Obama made history by becoming the first sitting US President to visit Laos.
Short People: In a list of the countries with the shortest people in the world, Laotians rank second, with the average person standing just 155.89cm (5ft, 1.37inches) tall. Laos also has the youngest population in all of Asia, with nearly 70% of the population under 30 years old. Laotians don’t mind being short and making comments about people’s appearance is a common habit among Laotians. So don’t be offended if someone points out that you’re too tall, skinny, or fat.
Forbidden but Allowed: Even though it was officially banned in the 1990s, cock fighting is still popular throughout Laos. The value of a prized rooster can reach USD $1,000, and that gives an indication of the amount of money a rooster owner can make when he owns a champion.
Gambling is also prohibited, but the Lao people love gambling and will bet on anything. We’re told that if they happen to see two stray dogs fighting, they will start betting and will follow the animals and their fight for as long as it takes to pinpoint a winner. Laos is also home to one of the strangest competitive betting sports – rhinoceros beetle wrestling.
Dok Champa – The National Flower: You’re probably more familiar with its other name, the frangipani. This evocative tropical flower, with its sweet romantic fragrance, can be seen everywhere in Laos, most especially decorating vats (temples) and monasteries. The Dok Champa is considered sacred and respected by Laotians and its meaning is “joy in life and sincerity”.
A Most Unfortunate “Most”: Laos is the most heavily bombed place in history per capita. For nine years (1964-1973) during the Vietnam war, the United States dropped over 2 million tons of bombs across Laos including 262 million anti-personnel cluster bombs. That’s more than ALL the bombs dropped during World War II combined. And about 30% of them, around 80 million bombs, didn’t explode. This has resulted in a large portion of land still unusable for farming due to unexploded ordinance. And it’s estimated that 20,000+ people have been killed or maimed by the bombs left behind in the 50 years since the bombing stopped.
Bomb Boats: Looking down from a bridge spanning the Namkading river, you might see something unusual – silver missile boats. Though the shape of the boats look like missiles, these were not bombs, they were fuel tanks carried by aircraft (Phantom F-4 for example) for refueling. Many of these would be jettisoned after use during the ‘secret war’ carried out by the US in Laos during the Vietnam war. Villagers saw potential in these high scrap metal casings and have been recycling them ever since. The ones that were intact get transformed into boats, and because of their shape are called bomb boats. It’s possible to take a ride in one of them. All you have to do is ask one of the boat owners.
Eggs are a Delicacy: No, not those of the poultry kind. We’re talking about one’s a bit smaller in size. Ant eggs are a delicacy in Laos, with ant-egg soup being a favorite late summer dish.
Ant eggs are high in protein, however, not all ant eggs are good to eat. The eggs that the Lao people enjoy are the ones from the weaver ants (recognizable as the red ants). They’re called weaver because they construct their nests by weaving the tree leaves together. We tried these as a topping on a couple dishes and found them similar to tiny fish roe in their “popping” when eaten, but with a more acidic tang. We’re told the acidity is caused by the ant’s preferred diet of mango. If you aren’t ready to dive right into the whole ant egg thing, you can always try the fried crickets or bamboo caterpillars.
Home to Possibly the Cheapest Alcohol in the World: Lao-Lao is a potent rice-whiskey made in Laos that sells for less than a dollar per liter! Easily found in any corner store, mom-and-pop shop, or market across the country, the spirit is the cheapest in the world. Traditionally drunk neat and in a single gulp, it tastes akin to downing a shot of rubbing alcohol and is a sure-fire bet that you won’t remember the details of the night before. Flavor variations are made by macerating such additives as honey, snakes, and scorpions. Ummm, this is all hearsay of course. But consider yourself warned!
A UNESCO World Heritage City: On the Mekong River, about 300 km (185 miles) north of Vientiane, with a population of about 100,000 lies a city unique in the world – Luang Prabang.
With its unique and remarkably well preserved wooden colonial architecture, a lively night market, ornate temples, and pristine nature all around, this charming and historic city checks all the boxes for a perfect destination. This ancient, UNESCO-protected city was the royal capital of the Kingdom of Laos until 1975. A site not to be missed is the “morning alms” or “Sai Bat” ceremony. Each morning hundreds of monks living and studying in Luang Prabang walk the streets carrying their alms bowls to accept food offers. Locals and tourists make offerings of sticky rice and fruit.
Speaking of Sticky Rice: This is national staple and more sticky rice is consumed in Laos that anywhere else on planet earth. Traditionally eaten with their hands, served sweet, fermented or sour, 155 kilograms (340 pounds) is consumed per Laotian per year. By contrast, the average European or American consumes only around 9 kilograms (19 pounds) of rice per annum. Laotians commonly refer to themselves as “luk khao niaow” which appropriately translates to “children or descendants of sticky rice”. Uncooked sticky rice grains are often thrown into the air after prayers.
The Plain of Jars: The plain of jars is an area in Laos that holds one of the most important pre-historic archeological sites in Southeast Asia. Located in the Xiangkhoang Plateau are more than 2,500 stone jars scattered over hundreds of kilometers. They range from one to three metres (3 to 6 feet) in height and weigh up to fourteen tons.
They cast an eerie and mystic feel to the place that can be compared to Stonehenge in the UK. Researchers concluded that the jars are dated to as early as 1240 to 660 BC but are still uncertain about their purpose. According to Lao legend, the jars were created by Khun Cheung, the King of giants, who commanded the jars to brew lao-lao rice whiskey after the victory of a very bloody battle.
Coffee in a Plastic Bag: Lao coffee is delicious and not as internationally famous as it should be. It is what tea is to Sri Lanka and is actually Laos’ biggest agricultural export. Both Arabica and Robusta coffee varieties are grown, mostly on the Bolaven Plateau in the southwestern part of the country, which has cool temperatures and plenty of rain. The French colonists brought coffee to Laos and today, 15-20,000 tons a year are produced. A traditional Laotian iced coffee from street stalls is served with a large dash of condensed milk in a plastic bag with lots of ice and a straw.
To Kip or not to Kip: The kip is the national currency of Laos. If you’re visiting Vientiane from Thailand, there’s no need to exchange your baht to kip, unless you want a keepsake of your travels. While kip are dispensed from ATMs, most shops will take Thai baht as well as US dollars. If you do withdraw kip, be aware that it’s virtually impossible to change it back to any other currency once you have left the country.
Finally, we thought we’d offer up a few suggestions of some local Lao dishes that you might want to try when you’re there:
· Larb – the national dish of Laos, it can best be described as a meat salad. Made of thinly sliced pork, buffalo, seafood, or chicken it’s seasoned with a combination of lemon juice and fish sauce mixed with local herbs.
· Khao Soi – made with a clear broth and thin noodles on top, with minced pork mixed with tomatoes and local spices.
· Jaew Bong – a typical Lao sauce in the form of fish paste mixed with dried chilies, garlic, shallots, ginger, and dried buffalo fat. A unique culinary experience, but maybe not for everyone.
· Kai Paen – a snack made from freshwater green algae. Loved throughout the country but especially popular in Luang Prabang, where the algae can be easily harvested from local riverbeds. The process includes pounding, boiling, flattening, and drying. Kai Paen is eaten like potato chips and is best when accompanied by the delicious local Lao beer, “Beerlao”.
· Sai Oua Kwai – buffalo sausage. Locally raised buffalo is ground and mixed with lemongrass, ginger, and local spices.
This brings us to the end of our brief look at Laos, its people, traditions, history, and even its food. This little-known nation is truly a hidden gem of a place to visit. A place that has held onto its traditions in ways some other countries would envy. A place where time just seems to move at a different pace than nearly everywhere else on the planet.
Laotians typically value a simple life rather than wealth and money. Eating, drinking, and leisure times are generally most important for Lao people. In fact, travelers often find them to be some of the most laid-back and friendly people they’ve encountered. It’s a common joke that the initials for Laos People’s Democratic Republic – LPDR – actually stand for “Laos People Don’t Rush”.
But in today’s fast-paced world, where 60-second news bites have become the modern version of War and Peace, and where the only thing more interesting than the latest technology is the next one that’s on the drawing board, is that slower pace really such a bad thing? Bottom line, you won’t be disappointed by an incredible journey through a country where history is written in the smiles of the people, and where the future holds the promise of continued enchantment.
Laos is a hidden treasure waiting to be uncovered, a destination that will leave an indelible mark on your heart. Don’t miss the opportunity to experience the magic of the “Land of a Million Elephants” for yourself.
Just get used to taking life a lot slower when you’re there!
Have you been to Laos? Tell us about it in the comments below. And where would you like to visit next?
Wow now that was a fantastic post about Laos! Honestly never gave it much thought, but I need to do a little more research. Thank you and even the Jeow Bong sounds interesting. The iced coffee in a bag, hmmmm not so sure about!